On Day 37 we had to say goodbye to Venice. Neat place and still plenty to explore when we visit again!
Caught water taxi back – caught our train – no real problem this time, then back via Florence to Rome. Seemed to be lots of tunnels on the way! Took about 4 ½ hours and it rained most of the way! Took a taxi back to our hotel – Beverly Hills! Still raining. Grabbed a snack across the road. Watched the end of the Giro I’talia leg in Montepulcino – with everybody covered in mud. They rode some of the same road we had done the week before – and we got wet but not muddy!
We met the rest of our tour party. It was raining and cold. We looked for a place to eat and finally met with other that knew where to go. We had dinner across the road with the other 2 New Zealanders on the trip from New Plymouth. Bus is full with 34 people.
We had a relatively early night – because we had an early start the next day. This was a day when we took – can you believe it – zero photos.
Day 38
We were up early (Shona was u at 5.45 due to being afraid she would sleep in!) and we left on tour at 7.40 am.
It was a long drive today – we didn’t get to destination until 3 pm with only a couple of brief comfort stops on the way! We travelled south from Rome on the main highway and then cut across Italy to the other coast over the alps. It rained most of the way!! We also saw some windturbines – obviously blows here.
Lots of grain crops being grown – wheat and barley I think – miles and miles on a rolling landscape with a motor way with very few cars on it – partly because it was Sunday but also just less traffic in this part of Italy.
We eventually arrived at Arrebello which was a small rural town – certainly a poorer, drier (except today) area of Italy. But heaps of crops, vegetables, olives, grain crops and grapes. Wine and Olive Oil being their top products of the area – and well known for its vegetables apparently.
When we got here a local guide took us to the main highlight of Arrabello that of the Tullie houses.
These were originally built by the poor to live in – they have stone roofs. They build them not using any mortar to hold them up. Just recently they are being bought by outsiders (Europeans, Brits etc) for big money and now locals can’t afford them – Ironic isn’t it!
But of cause they have modern facilities now in them. They are very fascinating and we had the chance to look inside one as well as seeing how Olive Oil used to be produced – It looked all a lot of hard work!
We went for tea to a local farm – It was a very flash house and we ate in a converted horse stables – It looked now like a long cellar. It was very nice. The food just kept coming about 5 courses in total – drink included. It was a good evening. We are getting to know others on trip. They are all a great bunch. The average age certainly closer to 60 than anything, but some very sprightly older people including a couple in their 80’s. Also have some younger people from Ohio ( a family including grandchildren, parents and grandfather. (youngest though is 19).
We had to get home by 9 pm for Dario (the drivers hours) since he had a long drive from Rome today.
Day 39 – Visits to Matera then visit to Ostuni.
In the morning we took a trip to Matera. This was about an hour away –we went on small country roads – There were often low rock walls on both sides, and heaps of Olive trees – apparently there are about 60,000,000 olive trees in this area of Italy – with some being extremely old (hundreds of years).
Matera was an amazing town where people used to live in caves. They built the houses into the rocks. About 50 years ago they got removed from the caves and given decent housing.
However it has now become popular – National Heritage site and people are rebuying them and doing them up – they are now quite expensive. The whole area is limestone and many houses are mostly inside the hill. This was the site of the filming of Mel Gibson’s portrayal of Jesus – they shot the movie here rather than in Jerusalem.
After some free time and some strawberries and gelatos later (guess who had which) we returned to the hotel for a brief time out. We then took an “extra” to Ostuni.
This was also about an hour away. This hill top town overlooks the Mediterranean (or Ionian sea). This is a very old town – it used to be walled but the walls have removed at some stage.
There were many pretty alleys and narrow streets.
A lot of white buildings – was whitewashed originally as a way of preventing illness (antiseptic) – especially when someone died.
Then back to base camp and dinner in the hotel.
Day 40 – To Sicily
This proved to be a very long day. We were up early and left by 7.30 am! We had a drive south to the arch of the foot of Italy and then travelled along the plains there – lots of olives again and other crops and fruit being grown.
Very definelty a poorer part of Italy which showed in the housing. Saw various hill top towns – which people originally moved to protect themselves from pirates who ranged this coast until late in the 19th century.
Travelled over the ranges back to the west coast and got on the A3 auto strada –the main route from north to south(from Naples). Parts of this motorway are stunning with bridges and tunnels everywhere.
At one stage the motorway swung out over the coast which seemed to be miles below – it was like being in an aeroplane except we were on a bridge running from one hill to another in a big curving arch (didn’t pay to think about how far down if the bridge broke!) – they certainly know how to build roads in Italy!!!!
Unfortunately we got within an hour of our destination port and got diverted due to a huge land slide which is going to block the motorway they estimate for a month and we had to then travel back across the ranges to the east side again!
It had started to rain heavily by this stage! However this ride was spectacular we went up one valley nearly to the top of the ranges (a bit like the Rumutakas) but instead of zig zagging up the side of the hill, they just build one long bridge which went from bottom to top - In places in the middle of the valley there were long concrete poles. Amazing – I tried to take one photo but it was tricky because of rain. Near the top we went through a very long tunnel and then down the other side was the same – a long bridge, miles long!
Then we travelled down the south end of Italy and in affect drove around the toe completely to the ferry. This part of Italy is very much drier and poorer. There were heaps of buildings that had been started but every third house seemed to be unfinished – very strange!
Drove around the coast at the end where they are putting in a new motor way progressively. Normally this wouldn’t see much traffic but due to the slip there were lots of traffic – especially trucks.
Eventually got to the port and boarded a ferry (with the bus) It was a very quick trip. Took only took 20 minutes approx to cross.
We were then in Sicily – first impressions very hilly and mountainous. We then carried on for about 1 hour to our hotel in Giardini Naxos (very flash hotel best so far. Beautiful gardens and swimming pool. Nice room overlooking inland – can just see Mt Etna (when its not cloudly or rining that is!!!)
Got in at 7 pm so took us nearly12 hours of travelling time to get here.
Tea in the hotel and bed – no exercise today but certainly tiring -glad I wasn’t driving!
Day 41 – In Taormina
We were allowed the luxury of a sleep in today after the long day yesterday. Starting to get to know the others on the bus trip progressively. After breakfast we boarded a bus to the nearby hilltop town of Taormina (we could see it from our bedroom window). We drove via the coast – very nice area – better housing and obviously better off in this area. There is luxurious vegetation – lots of lemon trees and other crops. This area is becoming very popular with some famous actors etc. The coast is quite spectacular – with nice beaches etc. Houses are dotted up the very steep banks.
The drive up to the village was very steep with very sharp hairpin corners – on one corner the bus had to have a second go to get around it and on all corners there was only room for the bus! Half way up we had to swap to smaller mini buses as our large bus couldn’t get around the corners!
The village on top was really nice –lots of tourist shops etc but beautiful alleys once again. It also had a very ancient Greek theatre which had spectacular views across the coast and Mt Etna (which was unfortunately quite hazy).
This theatre had later been taken over by the Romans who had changed it to suit their purposes. The theatre is still uses today for shows like Pavaroti and the 4 tenors!
We had a pleasant lunch with a couple from Australia – who originally come from Italy so helped out with the Italian!.
We then returned to our hotel and had the afternoon off – actually had free time!!!! Walked to the beach with 4 others (about 2 km away) then back and relaxed in a cafe.
Went out to a restaurant that was right on the sandy beach we had walked to! Was a little cold! Beautiful views though and tried some night shots across the water of the hill top lights and boats.
They had organised a small band for us (guitar, piano accordion and singer) who were extremely good and entertaining and made the evening really, Half way through they got up a fourth member who played a type of recorder – but smaller – not sure what they called it, but he was just stunning. He even got a couple of standing ovations! I have never heard someone make an instrument like this sound so neat and boy could he play fast – it was one of those occasions you had to be there to believe it! Group certainly had fun – main course sword fish Sicilan style!
Day 42 – Mt Etna special
Up earlier today and a local tour guide took us first to Savoca once again a small hill top town (which used to be very large but most people have now left to life on the coast that the pirates have gone!) but this was where they shot part of Godfather – so we had all the scenes retold to us and even had the one local who had a speaking part (back in the 70’s) came to the window to reinact her one word part!
– it was a very small town with one very keen traffic policeman walking around making sure everyone was doing as they were told.
The town only had one street really!
Once again a very steep zig zag road to get up an down – and very very sharp corners especially when you are in a large bus!
We then travelled 2 hours and climbed (in the bus) Mt Etna. This mountain is the third most active volcano in the world. Its last major eruption was in 2002, but it just throws out lots of lava flows so tends to be relatively tame. It is nearly 12,000 ft high (over 3000 metres). The road goes up to 2,00 meters and as we went further up the vegetation vanished and we were going over ancient and not so ancient lava flows.
At the top of the road unfortunately the weather had closed in. I had a quick look at one crater but then we sheltered in the restaurant. A very efficient type took all our orders etc.
Temperature at the top was 5 degrees with about 10 degrees of wind chill factor I reckon. By the time we dropped back to sea level it was up to 20 degrees. I guide said we wouldn’t have any more rain in Sicily until October –we all laughed since we have had lost of rain. I am now sitting in my room writing this listening to heavy rain on the rood outside!!!! Ho Hum!!!! At least my raincoat is getting some use!
Tea in the hotel tonight.
Was very cold though! But good to get out and about. But essentially a lazy day.
